Domain Sylvain Pataille
We’re in the commercial heart of Champagne, Reims, sat at a red leather booth in an ‘English’ pub called the Glue Pot. So far, this is not looking promising, but we’ve done our research and there’s a reason we’re here. A waiter (black skinny jeans, tattoos, Thrasher t-shirt) brings us a wine list… Jackpot. It reads like an anthology edition of Noble Rot. The names of the growers are a who’s who of what’s ‘in’ right now. We’re on holiday, so we’re feeling fancy, which means Burgundy, and there it is - Domain Sylvain Pataille. Wine follows trends like anything else. Some go, some stay. Sylvain Pataille is the latter and the wines he’s making in his native Marsanny-la-Côte are simply gorgeous.
The First Bottle…
We’ve said elsewhere that Plouf is about bringing you great wines from the less-known parts of the oenological atlas which in Burgundy means lesser known villages. Marsannay is at the top of the Côte de Nuits, a part of the golden slope that is gaining more and more attention in these days of climate change. Historically known for its Rosé, its reds and increasingly its whites (particularly from Aligoté), are becoming the focus and a lot of that is down to Sylvain himself.
Having started his studies in wine at the tender age of 14, he is a first generation winemaker which is startling for someone of his influence (as well as a winemaker, he is a consultant oenologist for a whole host of other vignerons). Heritage is his main focus; by meticulously caring for ancient vines in small parcels of the village he crafts excellent, precise and approachable wines. The winemaking is hands off; judicious use of sulphur, very gentle pressing and light touch filtration is what goes into these wines, that importantly, are only bottled and sold when ready.
The Wines
Aligoté, the second white grape of Burgundy, is having a resurgence. Sylvain Pataille is at the heart of that movement as a founding member of the Aligoteurs organisation. This is his village level Aligoté which is a perfect balance of ripe citrus and stone fruit, rich texture and signature mineraltiy. It’s a wine that will open your eyes to a whole new world of possibility in Burgundy.
Aligoté / 13% / Marsannay, Burgundy, France / 75cl
Sylvain is one of those rare winemakers who is equally adept at making whites and reds. This chardonnay is from a mixture of his old vine plots around Marsannay including the Clos du Roy. It spends 18 months in oak, with 1/3 new barrels, balancing out the ripe citrus and stone fruit with spice. It’s all topped of with a touch of smokey reduction typical for everyone’s favourite white burgundy.
Chardonnay / 13% / Marsannay, Burgundy, France / 75cl
The is the wine that first excited us about Sylvain’s wines with it’s precise, plush and delicious red and dark fruit. 25% whole bunch brings the brightness, balanced with texture and spice notes from aging in several sizes of old oak barrels. It evolves in the glass beautifully, changing with every sip showing it’s immediate approachability, but that it has legs to go for a few more years, teasing out this typical mushroom and forest floor aromas that are like catnip for Pinot obsessives.
Pinot Noir / 12.5% / Marsannay, Burgundy, France / 75cl
The Clos du Roy is the jewel in Marsannay’s crown both figuratively and literally. This tiny east facing plot that is regarded as the best in the appellation is just shy of being the nortnernmost vineyard in the Côtes de Nuits. It’s also a serious contender for the ongoing reclassification to 1er Cru status.
The 60 year old Pinot vines planted to the limestone and marl soil soak up the morning sun to produce bunches worthy of it’s royal name. They are fermented with 95% whole bunch, then followed with 18 months of elevage to bring the aromas produced from this special plot into your glass with a wave of sumptuous strawberry, cherry and raspberry backed up with fine acidity and lithe tannins. This bottle will definitely benefit from bottle age for those of you who can be patient.
Pinot Noir / 13% / Marsannay, Burgundy, France / 75cl